Water Spinach

Chinatown's produce stands offer many items that make only fleeting seasonal appearances, often so brief that the intrepid chefs at the Blue Cleaver scarcely have time to figure out how to cook them properly before they disappear for another year. One example: water spinach.

We have learned that the Cantonese name for water spinach translates as "hollow vegetables." Indeed, the stems of this leafy green are much akin to drinking straws, making them easy to spot amid similar items.

In early May, bunches of fresh water spinach will be piled high on stands around Canal Street, Eighth Avenue in Sunset Park, and Main Street in Flushing. Stems should be firm and bright, with no wilted leaves, and they should cost you around $2 per pound, give or take a quarter.

To cook up a mess of these greens, just trim off the very ends of the stems and chop up the rest, mixing stems and leaves together.

Pour a little bit of oil (we used chili-infused olive and a drop of sesame) and a splash of mirin (sweet cooking wine) in a wok.

When it's hot, add in some sliced garlic and ginger.

After a minute or two, throw in the greens and cook very briefly so they just wilt. You want to keep the stems crunchy.

Sprinkle a little rice vinegar and soy sauce on top, maybe even a dab of hot sauce, and you're ready to serve.