Montreal, April 3-8, 2026

Posted: May 15th, 2026 | Filed under: Out Of Town

April 3, 2026
The Betty Beavers Truck Stop & Diner is still there in Lewis, New York, just off of I-87, though minus a diner:

Betty Beavers Fuel Stop, 234 Redmond Road, Lewis, New York, April 3, 2026

April 4, 2026

First, Fairmount Bagel:

Fairmount Bagel, 74 Avenue Fairmount Ouest, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Fairmount Bagel Bagels, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Then the Ateliers & Saveurs Macarons Class:

Ateliers & Saveurs Macarons Class, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Ateliers & Saveurs Macarons Class, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Ateliers & Saveurs Macarons Class, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Then a bagel taste-test following a return visit to St-Viateur Bagel:

St-Viateur Bagel, 263 Rue Saint-Viateur Ouest, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

St-Viateur Bagel, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Parc du Mont-Royal/Mount Royal Park:

Kondiaronk Belvedere, Parc du Mont-Royal/Mount Royal Park, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

View From Kondiaronk Belvedere, Parc du Mont-Royal/Mount Royal Park, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Mount Royal Cross, Parc du Mont-Royal/Mount Royal Park, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

The AirBnB was in a great spot in Vieux Montréal/Old Montreal, so we were able to explore around there a lot. The nautical Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel, for example:

Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Place Jacques-Cartier:

Place Jacques-Cartier, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Cabane à Sucre, Place Jacques-Cartier, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

Rue Notre-Dame:

Rue Notre-Dame Ouest Between Boulevard Saint-Laurent and Rue Saint-Sulpice, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

We tried to eat mostly Quebecois food and Caribou Gourmand features many exotic meats, including seal (!):

Loup Marin des Iles de la Madeleine/Wild Seal From Magdalen Island, Caribou Gourmand, Montréal, Canada, April 4, 2026

April 5, 2026

The Spade & Palacio Beyond the Basilica Essential 101 Montréal Walking Tour is very good and as the name implies, takes you “beyond the Basilica” into Chinatown, up Boulevard Saint-Laurent, into fun stores and snack spots and showcases various Montreal’s murals between the Place des Artes and Plateau Mont-Royal . . .

Place d’Armes:

Maisonneuve Monument, Place d'Armes, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Basilique Notre-Dame de Montréal/Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal:

Basilique Notre-Dame de Montréal/Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2006

Rue Saint-Jacques:

Théâtre St-James, 265 Rue Saint-Jacques, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Old Molson Bank Building, Rue Saint-Jacques, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Royal Bank Tower:

Royal Bank Tower, 360 Rue Saint-Jacques, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

RÉSO:

Berlin Wall, RÉSO/Montreal Underground, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Palais des Congrès de Montréal:

Palais des Congrès de Montréal, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Chinatown:

Boulevard Saint-Laurent at Boulevard René-Lévesque, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Esplanade Tranquille:

Esplanade Tranquille, Rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Esplanade Tranquille, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Eva B:

Eva B, 2015 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Eva B, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Boulevard Saint-Laurent:

Boulevard Saint-Laurent Near Boulevard René-Lévesque, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2006

Boulevard Saint-Laurent at Rue Ontario, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2006

Eva B, 2015 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2006

Boulevard Saint-Laurent at Rue Saint-Cuthbert, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2006

Schwartz’s:

Schwartz's Deli, Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2006

Schwartz's Deli, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Jackie Robinson Mural, Rue Napoleon at Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2006

Leonard Cohen Mural, Rue Napoleon at Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

For dinner, Au Pied de Cochon, where everything is remarkable. This is squid ink poutine topped with calamari:

Squid Ink Poutine, Au Pied de Cochon, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Sea urchins and foie gras nigiri:

Oursins/Sea Urchin, Au Pied de Cochon, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Foie Gras Nigiri, Au Pied de Cochon, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Veal brain:

Cervelle de Veau/Veal Brain, Au Pied de Cochon, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

And their famous “Canard en Conserve” — Duck In a Can:

Canard en Conserve/Duck In a Can, Au Pied de Cochon, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Canard en Conserve/Duck In a Can, Au Pied de Cochon, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

Canard en Conserve/Duck In a Can, Au Pied de Cochon, Montréal, Canada, April 5, 2026

April 6, 2026

The aforementioned Schwartz’s is great but Smoke Meat Pete in nearby L’Île-Perrot is worth the trip:

Smoke Meat Pete, L'Île-Perrot, Canada, April 6, 2026

Smoked Meat Sandwich, Smoke Meat Pete, L'Île-Perrot, Canada, April 6, 2026

The Oratoire Saint-Joseph-du-Mont-Royal/Saint Joseph’s Oratory up on Mont Royal is a beautiful spot:

Oratoire Saint-Joseph-du-Mont-Royal/Saint Joseph's Oratory, 3800 Chemin Queen Mary, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

I have never seen so many candles as there are in the votive chapel:

Votive Chapel, Oratoire Saint-Joseph-du-Mont-Royal/Saint Joseph's Oratory, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

Basilica, Oratoire Saint-Joseph-du-Mont-Royal/Saint Joseph's Oratory, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

Basilica, Oratoire Saint-Joseph-du-Mont-Royal/Saint Joseph's Oratory, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

I am partial to nice views, which was one reason I wanted to come here:

View From Oratoire Saint-Joseph-du-Mont-Royal/Saint Joseph's Oratory, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

Oratoire Saint-Joseph-du-Mont-Royal/Saint Joseph's Oratory, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

A return visit to Marché Jean-Talon:

Marché Jean-Talon, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

Marché Jean-Talon, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

Les Délices de la Mer:

Les Délices de la Mer, Marché Jean-Talon, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

Great local oysters at La Boîte aux Huîtres:

La Boîte aux Huîtres, Marché Jean-Talon, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

Oysters, La Boîte aux Huîtres, Marché Jean-Talon, Montréal, Canada, April 6, 2026

April 7, 2026

Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire in nearby Saint-Esprit is a festival of all things maple syrup:

Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, 184 Rang des Continuations, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

The meals at the sugar shacks (“cabane à sucre”) are huge and seemingly everything incorporates maple syrup:

Menu, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Jambon sur os Braisé à l'Érable, Omelette Soufflée, Patates Rissolées and Fèves au Lard Mijotées à l'Érable, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Desserts, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Tire:

Tire, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Tire, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Tire, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Tire, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Of course they also produce maple syrup, and the spring is when the trees basically aspirate the raw sap — producers need daytime temperatures above freezing to induce a freeze-thaw scenario that moves the sap through networks of hoses:

Maple Trees, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Maple Syrup Cans, Cabane à Sucre Constantin Grégoire, Saint-Esprit, Canada, April 7, 2026

Rue Saint-Paul:

Rue Saint-Paul Ouest Near Rue Saint-François-Xavier, Montréal, Canada, April 7, 2026

Rue Saint-Paul Est at Rue Saint-Gabriel, Montréal, Canada, April 7, 2026

Rue Saint-Paul Est at Place Jacques-Cartier, Montréal, Canada, April 7, 2026

Rue Saint-Paul Est at Rue du Marché Bonsecours, Montréal, Canada, April 7, 2026

The joyful Gibeau Orange Julep:

Gibeau Orange Julep, 7700 Boulevard Décarie, Montréal, Canada, April 7, 2026

Orange Julep, Gibeau Orange Julep, Montréal, Canada, April 7, 2026

Gibeau Orange Julep Michigans and Poutine, Montréal, Canada, April 7, 2026

April 8, 2026

A morning run around the Vieux-Port de Montréal/Old Port of Montreal:

Tour de l'Horloge/Clock Tower, Vieux-Port de Montréal/Old Port of Montreal, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Parc du Bassin-Bonsecours, Vieux-Port de Montréal/Old Port of Montreal, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Plage de l'Horloge/Clocktower Beach, Vieux-Port de Montréal/Old Port of Montreal, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Quai Jacques-Cartier/Jacques-Cartier Pier, Vieux-Port de Montréal/Old Port of Montreal, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Quai Jacques-Cartier/Jacques-Cartier Pier, Vieux-Port de Montréal/Old Port of Montreal, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

A winter’s worth of slowly disintegrating chunks of snow and ice looked almost sculptural:

Promenade du Vieux-Port at Lachine Canal, Vieux-Port de Montréal/Old Port of Montreal, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Lachine Canal, Vieux-Port de Montréal/Old Port of Montreal, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Place d’Youville:

Place d'Youville, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

A final lunch at the elegant Gibbys:

Gibbys, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Soupe à l'Oignon/French Onion Soup, Gibbys, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

These were the best escargots I’ve ever had:

Escargots à la Bourguignonne, Gibbys, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Tartare de Boeuf/Steak Tartare, Gibbys, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

Steak au Poivre, Gibbys, Montréal, Canada, April 8, 2026

On the way back home, the IGL Duty Free at the border:

U.S.-Canadian Border, IGL Duty Free, 350 Autoroute 15, Saint-Bernard-de-Lacolle, Québec, Canada, April 8, 2026

And back into the U.S. via the Lacolle-Champlain Border Crossing:

Champlain–St. Bernard de Lacolle Border Crossing Between New York and Québec, Canada, April 8, 2026